Friday, September 29, 2017

Ria de Muros e Noia

The view from the clubhouse at RCNP 

The Ria de Muros e Noia (Muros y Noya in Spanish) provided us with a lovely cruising experience. Portosin was a great location for starting out because of the fabulous staff and the first rate facilities. The Real Club Nautico Portosin (RCNP) were so accommodating and friendly. I feel like Carmela is now a lifelong friend. They even posted a photo of the ICC burgee and Rally logo on their Facebook page.

The marina is half way between the town and magnificent beaches and park. A ten minute walk to the first restaurant was rewarding in that the restaurant offered amazing specials. One night we had lobster for two with a first course and dessert for €50. In Ireland, that would have cost €100 minimum. Amazing. Their house albarino was very tasty and went perfectly with all the seafood we sampled.

It was very useful to have bicycles on board in Portosin. A slightly longer walk or 10 minute bike ride into the centre of town brought us to several more restaurants, gorgeous beaches on the Atlantic side of the Ria, a hardware store, bank and convenience store. In the other direction was a small beach adjacent to the marina favoured by marina guests and a much larger and more popular beach a bit further away. On the main road to that beach was also a nice Eroski supermarket. They delivered to the marina if you spent more than €50, which wasn't hard. Although it was much harder to spend that in Spain than in Ireland. Jameson, available in most supermarkets, was about €14, and wines ranged between 99p and €15. The €2.50 wines were really fine to drink. We had our first dose of reverse sticker shock there.

We returned to Portosin a second time several weeks later on our return trip from Corcubion, just to do the laundry and see the people again. Of course, their wifi in the club house was very good and allowed us to get some banking and other business done, especially when accompanied by their generous vodka & tonics. The view from the second story veranda over the Ria were beautiful.
The marina at Muros
Across from Portosin is the ancient town of Muros. The new marina right in the center is helping to revive the town. We had heard the fireworks and the music when we were in Portosin and learned that it was the annual fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen, patron saint of seafarers and the most popular festival in Muros.  On the 8th of July, the figure of the Virgin is taken in procession down to the Parish Church of St Mary in the Field, marking the start of the novena (nine-day period).

At noon on the 16th, a Mass is celebrated. A local mariner makes an offering to the Virgin on everyone’s behalf. In the afternoon, the statue is carried to the harbour and placed on a boat for a maritime procession in which all boats participate, making a festive spectacle in the bay. It is one of the most distinctive events - religious, cultural or festive - of all the coastal towns. The statue is returned to its home chapel, where the faithful say a Hail Mary. The celebration continues in Muros throughout the afternoon and evening, culminating in a firework display at midnight.

I had already covered Noia in my post about visiting Santiago.


Fresh fish special 

Meat is rare on menus, but when offered, it will be veal or pork.

The clubhouse at the RCNP

The town of Portosin

Women mending the nets on the fishing pier

The marina viewed from the fishing pier

Salad with fish for lunch

Bicycles to the beach

Beautiful water but cold.

The main beach outside of town. 

It got pretty crowded. 

View from the park over the beach with the marina and town in the distance.

Traditional Galician musicians

Cruceiro at the monastery

Each section had a different style of buttress

Nicely restored

Beautiful lines

Coffee near the monastery

The main street in Muros
The main square in Muros



Fiesta is over

Fog settling in over the anchorage.
The Virgen del Carmen being disassembled. 



A horreio

The chapel in Muros 

Cafes along the waterfront

Good anchorage

Lovely walk and park along the shore in Muros

Departing Muros. 

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