More abysmal weather on Inishmore

We had a leisurely start in the morning on the 29th of June, my 68th birthday. (How did I ever get this old?) Alex made breakfast and gave me two books to celebrate: Chris' new memoir and a polytunnel book, wrapped in kitchen towels. How thoughtful. No waste. 

We knew it would take us about 7 hours to sail over to Inishmore in the Aran Islands, but the later we started the more settled the seas would be according to WindGuru. We left at about 11 am. The wind was still gusty and the seas were still very lumpy, especially between Inishark and High Island. It never really got much better, so we were glad the others didn't sail. The highlight of the trip was a sighting of small porpoises. 

As we approached Kilronan, two other yachts came into view crossing from within Galway Bay. It was Aniar and Gaia sailing over from Rossaveal. They picked up moorings while we dropped anchor. The wind was northeasterly and it was not really pleasant. Another ICC boat came in and went into the pier. 

 

We passed on the trip to Inisheer, which the others partook of on the following day. We'd been before. It was a nice day but we took it easy. Alex had stopped on Inishmore when delivering Aleria to Kilrush last year. I hadn't been in several years and was looking forward to a day ashore catching up on the island life. We dropped the dinghy in the water and went ashore to reprovision at the Spar supermarket.

It quickly became clear that Inishmore had changed since we were here last. It was already a bit touristy years ago, but now it had the cruise ship port feel of the Caribbean. Wherever there were people coming ashore with money, there were people ashore wanting to take it. The proliferation of minibuses was absurd and the drivers were all hustling to fill their 'step-on step-off' buses with tourists. Except there's no step-on step-off between buses, only on their own bus, none of which has a schedule. Then there were the countless bike hire places and tourist traps. It was obnoxious and truly unpleasant to be fending off every few steps. It put me off Inishmore. 

The Carraig Donn shop had more jumpers/sweaters than I've ever seen, and we only saw the lower floor which was women's only. People were loading them up and shipping them home for free as they can no longer stuff their oversized luggage. The Americans were definitely in evidence. What used to be the American Bar but is now just The Bar was hopping. American posters are still there (Dylan, twin towers, etc) but I guess the Americans didn't want to go to an American bar in Ireland, so they changed the name. 

We loaded up at Spar and headed back to the boat. We had the Commodore's raft up planned for this evening, except that with the reduced numbers, we'd need only one boat, ReeSpray, to accommodate the lot. The Commodore and Vice Commodore arrived at about 4 pm having motor sailed from Inishbofin that day. They said it was still a bit rough but they made it in time for the 6 pm party. 

Alex and I loaded up lots of nibbles we had prepared, including cheeses and crackers, olives, and much more. Slowly the others arrived. We learned that two of the crew off one of the boats had developed Covid and had departed. The remaining two tested negative and were 'self-isolating' by staying outdoors. It was a lovely gathering and we laughed. 

Soon it was time to head back to our floating homes. We had no need for dinner after the lovely appetizers, of which we ate lots. The evening was a quiet affair on board, with one of our first chances to sit on deck at night. The ferries came and went as we rocked gently in the harbour. Another boat came in late and anchored even farther out. It was a boat seriously outfitted for expedition sailing. Foreign flagged but we couldn't see from where. 

The next day, we awoke to rain and wind, more of the same for a trip out to Dun Aengus. We had a water taxi arranged for the day. The nicest guys came out in a sweet blue and yellow fishing boat to take us ashore. They could not have been more helpful, kind and thoughtful. 

We met up with the rest of the crews on shore, found our tour bus driver and learned that we would have an island tour first before the walk to the promontory fort. Our driver was the best! He started out 35 years ago and cannot believe that the County Council has allowed the taxi trade to proliferate so much. He was funny and entertaining and good at telling stories and pointing out the features on the island. It was great as we'd never gone left before and there were some interesting things and topography out there, like a beach made famous in movies. 

We stopped at an ancient site with two churches and a burial site for Romans who died while attending courses on Inishmore in early Christian times. There were multiple buses there so this is the tourist thing but it was interesting. 

Of course, at Dun Aengus, it was raining and windy but we all walked up braving the elements. Horrors, there were loads of other people going up and down and hanging out, including kids standing way too close to the edge for comfort. No longer can you climb the walls or go out to the Chevaux de frise. 

It was a bit anticlimactic and very slippery coming down the rock walkway. But we persevered and Alex, Barbara and Thierry helped Viv get safely down. It wasn't a total loss as we had a lovely lunch in Teach Nan Phaidi, the thatched cottage cafe at the 'craft village'. Tomato soup and crab salad sandwiches were delicious. And the signature Guinness choclate cake was divine. 

The ride back to town closed the loop around the island. Now we had just about an hour to get out to the boat, change clothes and come back ashore for the closing dinner. Water taxi guys to the rescue. 

Dinner was at the hotel which is at the west end of the island. The hotel picked us up in people movers. We'd never been to the hotel before but it was hoppin'. We had a nice function room for a couple of hours before we had to vacate for another event -- a wedding. They really do hustle on Inishmore. 

Alex's friend, Pat Hartigan and his wife Caroline met us in the hotel for dinner as he is keen to join the ICC. They stayed aboard Aleria and were delightful guests. It was bitter sweet as the Commodore gave a lovely speech and then Thierry Courvoisier got up to thank all of us for inviting them to join in and especially me and Alex for having invited them and introduced them to the real west coast of Ireland. Thierry gave us a copy of his book about sailing (not the astrophysics one) in French. I've been using my high school French to read it. 

After breakfast, Pat & Caroline got a lift from the water taxi to catch the first ferry back to Kerry in the morning. We'll be seeing them again, that's for sure. We have a lot in common. Liked them very much,

That's how a two-week cruise-in-company came to a close. Several of the yachts had already sailed on as they had long trips to Dingle if heading south. Aoife was flying out* so ReSpray prepared to leave soon after her departure. We left at a leisurely pace heading back toward Bofin. After the stress of the cruise, which brought four seasons of weather in two weeks, we decided to just head home without dallying. Two stops and we'd be home. Could not wait!

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*PS We learned that the cost for 'elderly citizens' to fly out to the Arans Islands from Connemara airport in €15 return. We are planning to do a day trip very soon. https://aerarannislands.ie/