Back to our favourite places

- July 21, 2018

The bar with hórreos to sit under.

We’ve been to Combarro a few times now, Once anchored off the marina, once in the marina, once anchored off Ilha Tambo, and once anchored off the mole. We’ve loved it every time. So when we raised anchor in Aldan, we chose to return again. Lots of birds were fishing as the fish rose all around us. Dolphins were feeding and porpoises jumping for joy at their find. Fishermen were actually catching lots of mackerel not just fishing. It was the most wildlife we had seen in our time underway and it was encouraging.

We tied up at the fuel dock – the only place we could find to leave the dinghy where the gates were not locked. The big block of buildings at the marina periphery seemed even emptier than last year. Only two restaurants and mostly empty storefronts. Sad. It should be vibrant.

Yes, Combarro is a tourist trap, but a charming one. With the waterfront restaurants and shops carved into the rock walls, the meandering streets winding up the hill, the countless horreos and beautifully carved cruceiros. Somehow, we hadn’t really meandered up into the residential area the previous times, so we did that this time, I taking loads of photos of every horreo and cruceiro we passed. We walked out into the vineyards that surround the town. We then walked down onto the beach which we also had not done before. It was low tide and the sands are covered with seaweed which ‘matures’ in the sun. The profile of the waterfront town from this vantage is lovely with its myriad horreos lining the shore.

There is one restaurant which has bar seating under a horreo and we’ve always eyed those seats overlooking the harbour but they’ve always been occupied, until yesterday. We snagged the seats and ordered a couple of albarinos to pass the time until dinner. Bliss. Perfect temperature, lovely view, good wine.

We walked over to the wisteria arbour in the large main square and watched people playing kayak basketball for a while. Bought bread and pastries at the panaderia, then wandered back to the shops where I bought a witch tree ornament and a celtic T-shirt. At 6:30 we opted for an early dinner (by their standards VERY early) and ordered sardinhas, zamburinas and croquetas. A bottle of albarino and we were happy.

The square which this restaurant now occupies was once the centre of life in the village of Combarro. The fishermen brought their catch to the Quay and the women brought their vegetables and wares to sell at market. Today, it is no longer vital.

As we made our way back to the boat from the fuel dock, we noted that Orchestra was tied up there, as was another boat bearing the Ocean Cruising Club (OCC) burgee, the distinctive yellow and blue flying fish. Her name is Wife of 𝞹 and her sail number is 3.14167. We went over to introduce ourselves and were invited aboard by owner Enda Connellan and his wife. They had two friends from Dublin aboard and we were invited for drinks. Very nice group and another OCC photo op taken.

We slept well that night. In the morning, we made our way to Sao Vicente and anchored off the beach, taking care to avoid the rock we anchored near once before. They had Dragon boat races and they were fun to watch for a short while. They have six pairs of two rowers, a single in the front and a tiller handler steering in the rear. They are blazing fast. It made for a festive atmosphere.

We are making our way slowly to Portosin. A few nice stops still to go.